
■*• AND THEK- 



BATTLE-FIELDS. 



PRICE, 25 Cents 



Copyright, 1894. 



GUIDE 



TO 



RICHMOND 



=AND THE^ 



BATTLE-FIELDS. 



- 



BY W. D. CHESTERMAN. 



RICHMOND: 

J. L. Hill Printing Company 

1894- 






7%atf f/<& growing city [Richmond] may enjoy the benefits 
which are to be derived from liberty, independence, and peace — 
that it may improve such of the advantages as bountiful natun 
has bestowed, and that it may soon be ranked among the first 
in the Union for population, commerce, and wealth, is my sin- 
cere and fervent wish. 

GEORGE WASHINGTON. 

[Response to the address of the Common Hall upon his visit 
here in November, 1784.] 



[Copyrighted by W. D. Chesterman and G. W. Minter.] 



KftfHEIttNE I. FfSMflt 
JUNE 24 1940 



& 



INTRODUCTORY. 




& 



RICHMOND "hath a pleasant seat," said Daniel Web- 
ster, who saw it "beneath an October sun," and 
who wrote of it after delivering here one of his great 
orations. He was right. The city is midway be- 
tween the Blue Ridge mountains and the sea; on a 
succession of hills, with rich lowlands in the distance, and 
at a point where the James river breaks over the rocks at 
" the falls " and joins the tidal waters of the harbor The 
landscape in lines and colors blends the grace and softness 
of the low country with the majesty and vigor of the high- 
lands. 

Blessed with pure air and good drainage, healthy, bright 
looking, easily accessible from every point of the compass, 
prosperous and growing, it is no less rich in promise than 
in precious memories of the past. 

If the visitor to Richmond be of antiquarian taste, he may 
stand on the spot where rose the lodge of Powhatan, father 
of Pocahontas, and rulerof the Indian tribes of Eastern Vir- 
ginia. At fancy's call he may people the shore with Capt. 
John Smith, Christopher Newport, and their associate pio- 
neers who set foot on this soil in 1007, the year of the land- 
ing at Jamestown, and thirteen years before the arrival of 
the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth. He may saunter into 
the old church which rang to Patrick Henry's appeal for 
"liberty or death" and recall one of the most animating 
scenes in American history. He may walk the streets and 
roads beaten by the feet of Benedict Arnold's troops, when 
they devastated the country and burnt Richmond, which 
same thoroughfares later on echoed the tread of Washing- 



4 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

ton's and Lafaj^ette's soldiers in the movements which pre- 
faced the surrender at Yorktown; while of Confederate me- 
morials and associations every street has its share — every 
field was a camp a quarter of a century ago, when 

"The long streets trembled with the tramp of men 
And rang with shouting and martial strains, 
And up the glaring river came the boom 
Of mighty guns that held a fleet at bay." 

Here in Richmond is " The White House of the Confede- 
racy," looking almost exactly as it did when it was the 
Presidential residence of Mr. Davis. The Capitol of the 
State, in which the Confederate Congress sat, with doors 
open wide, invites the stranger to visit every room, and 
there is not a room without a history. 

From the platform on the Capitol roof a complete view of 
Richmond and the city of Manchester, opposite, may be had, 
including the highlands (up the river): the falls, the islands, 
Hollywood Cemetery, the six bridges which span the James, 
the ships in the harbor, and "the fertile fields and silent 
pines" on the opposite shore, with the river threading its 
way eastward until lost to sight behind the battle-crowned 
heights at Drewry's Bluff ; and in the distance the battle- 
fields of Fair Oaks (Seven Pines), Mechanicsville, &c, &c. 

Those who take an interest in art matters, especially, and 
persons of observation and culture, generally, will be de- 
lighted with the Washington monument — the grandest 
group of bronze statuary, certainly in this country, and 
many declare in the world. The equestrian statue of Gen. 
R. E. Lee, by Mercie, is a fine bronze set upon an elegant 
pedestal of granite. Houdon's statue, made from casts 
"taken from Washington's own person," is to be seen in 
the Capitol. Foley's bronze statue of Stonewall Jackson is 
one of the last and best works of that great sculptor. Hart's 
marble figure of Henry Clay is a faithful representation of 
that tribune of the people. 



G GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

On Libby Hill (Marshall Park) is a reproduction of Pom- 
pey's Pillar, surmounted by a Confederate infantryman, 
made by Buberl from the design of W. L. Sheppard. At 
Howitzer Place is the bronze figure of a Confederate artil- 
leryman, by the same artists. On the Hermitage road is 
a monument to A. P. Hill, by the same. In Monroe Park is 
a monument to Gen. W. C. Wickham, by Valentine. 

At Valentine's studio are the plaster cast of the recumbent 
figure of Lee; his great classical group, Andromache, and . 
many other models by this well-known Virginia sculptor; 
and in the Senate chamber is a great battle painting by 
Lami : The Storming of a Redoubt at Yorktown. 

Two Presidents of the United States (Monroe and Tyler) 
are buried at Hollywood. There also lies the body of the 
Hon. Jefferson Davis, the President of the Confederacy, 
who died at New Orleans December 6, 1889, and whose 
body was brought to this city in May, 1893. John Mar- 
shall, the most distinguished of the Chief Justices of the 
Supreme Court of the United States, lies by his wife in 
Shockoe Cemetery. 

Joaquin Miller's Visit to Richmond. — Joaquin Miller, who 
was in Richmond a few years ago, wrote a letter describing 
the place as follows : 

"A wide built city of brick on seven hills, hovering above 
the plunging James river, with many little islands — brisk 
streets, very clean, wide, and orderly, and so densely wooded 
as almost to conceal the three-story houses. A busy com- 
mercial and manufacturing city; beyond the river, with 
several bridges, a rolling, English-down looking country of 
vast reach and fertility; factories on the intervening islands 
and river banks, roaring with progress, sending up a smoke 
that hovers over the tawny, rushing river like the smoke of 
a might}' battle. One is surprised at the order and the in- 
dustry here. 

"Churches are notably numerous; school-houses are also 
to be seen on every hand throughout this industrial town. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 7 

"A vestige of the war — material, moral, or otherwise — is 
not discoverable to the stranger. Old Libby prison (since 
removed to Chicago), down by the river bank, looks no 
more like a prison than the dozen.other big tobacco houses, 
all with iron-grated windows. It is no longer a tobacco 
warehouse, ^however, but a monstrous, groaning, roaring- 
mill, where bark, bones, stones, and all sorts of things are 
ground up for fertilizing the soil. But it brings up strange 
fancies — this groaning, grinding, and gnashing in there, 
and then the dense, black, Vesuvian smoke that pours in- 
cessantly out of the top and hangs forever over it. 

"The city is building fast; buildings are booming ahead, 
just like New York, Boston, London, Paris, improving in 
all respects just like these and other great cities. You are 
liable to get mortar on you almost anywhere, but the march 
of improvement is mainly towards the west." 



I. 



Richmond and Manchester. 



Population and Railroads.— The population of Richmond 
is about 90,000, while its sister city (Manchester) has a 
population of 10,000 or 12,000 more, and the suburbs of the 
two about 5,000. 

Richmond is built on high hills, on the north bank of the 
James river, 127 miles from the ocean as a vessel sails. Tides 
rise to the city, making the greatest indentation of the sea 
on the Atlantic coast, and steamships ply between our port 
and New York and Philadelphia, giving to the community 
many of the advantages of a seaport. The railroads com- 
ing to Richmond are (in alphabetical order) as follows: 

Chesapeake and Ohio— Richmond Division; Peninsula 
Division; James River Division (Richmond and Alleghany 
railroad). 

Richmond and Danville. 

Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac. 

Richmond and York River— Division of Richmond and 
Danville. 

Richmond and Petersburg. 

The Farmville and Powhatan railroad, which extends 
from Bermuda Hundred to Farmville (a distance of 91 
miles), enters the city over the tracks of the Richmond and 
Danville. 

The Norfolk and Western enters the city from Petersburg 
upon the track of the Richmond and Petersburg railroad. 




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10 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

by rail to new york. 

The Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad, 
extending from Richmond to Quantico, on the Potomac 
river, a distance of 82 miles, forms the stem which connects 
the Pennsylvania railroad system with that known as the 
Atlantic Coast Line, and is the most direct route from 
Richmond to Washington, Baltimore, Philadelphia, and 
New York. It is, in fact, with its connection, as nearly as 
the lay of the land will permit, an air line to those cities. 
It is maintained in the highest possible state of efficiency, 
so as to afford a fast line between Richmond and the na- 
tional capital and the great Atlantic seaboard cities of the 
North. The time over it from Richmond to New York is 
ten and a half hours, or an average running time of about 
35 miles an hour. 

Its passenger service has always been especially good. It 
carries a vast number of tourists, Southern bound, destined 
as far South as Florida, New Orleans, and Havana; and for 
the purpose of advancing its business in this matter, it has 
widely advertised the historical and picturesque attractions 
of Richmond. It has a very good traffic in vegetables of 
Southern production, North bound, and in Southern lum- 
ber. There are about $4,000,000 invested in this road, and 
its operating expenses are approximately $500,000 a year. 
It is a paying property. Its connections are the Pennsylva- 
nia railroad north, the Atlantic Coast Line and Seaboard 
Air-Line to the south, the Richmond and Danville and 
Chesapeake and Ohio, en route, the latter at DoswelL, Xn., 
all the lines centering here, and (at Fredericksburg) the 
Potomac, Fredericksburg and Piedmont. It has one short 
branch, about three miles in length. 

This road is one of the oldest in the South, and has been, 
from the beginning, largely the property of Richmond peo- 
ple, operated practically by a Richmond management. It 
is the only road in which the State has an interest, and the 



12 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

investment has paid the Commonwealth over six per cent, 
annually for sixty years. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company own and 
operate over 1,000 miles of road, extending from Fortress 
Monroe (Old Point), on an inlet of the Atlantic ocean, to 
Newport News, the seaport of the system, eight miles from 
Fortress Monroe, whence steamers run to Norfolk and 
Portsmouth and the fine Old Dominion steamships to New 
York. There is also a line of steamships from Newport 
News to Liverpool. From Newport News the railway pro- 
ceeds up the Virginia peninsula, through the city of Wil- 
liamsburg, near to Yorktown and Jamestown, and along by 
numerous battle-fields of the war of 1861 and 1865. At 
Richmond the main stem goes towards the mountains via 
Gordonsville and Charlottesville. At the latter citj T , con- 
nections are made for Washington, Baltimore, Philadel- 
phia, and New York. Thence westward the route is 
through beautiful mountains and valleys via Staunton, 
White Sulphur Springs, Charleston, W. Va,, Huntington, 
W. Va., and down the Ohio to Cincinnati. At Cincinnati 
it connects with the Cleveland, Cincinnati, Chicago, and 
St. Louis systems, and with roads for all parts of the South, 
Southwest, West, and Northwest. 

From Richmond to Clifton Forge the Chesapeake and 
Ohio has virtually two roads— that is to sa} T , its main stem 
via Charlottesville, and its James River division (Rich- 
mond and Alleghany road), which passes up the James 
River Valley via Gladstone, Lynchburg, Lexington, Glas- 
gow, and Natural Bridge to an intersection with the main 
line at Clifton Forge. 

The Richmond and Petersburg Railroad is the initial 
link in the Atlantic Coast Line, which extends from Rich- 
mond to Charleston on' the south and Columbia on the west, 
and has a mileage of 1,122. It is operated in close connec- 
tion with the Savannah, Florida and Western system, which 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 13 

controls about 1,000 miles of railroad and drains a large 
part of southern Georgia and Florida. 

The Richmond and Danville Railroad Company owns 
and operates the Richmond and York River railroad, the 
Richmond and Danville, and the Virginia Midland, and 
roads in the States of North and South Carolina, Georgia, 
Tennessee, Alabama, and Mississippi, with an aggregate 
mileage of 7,520, extending as far south as Mobile and as 
far west as Memphis, Tenn., and Greenville, Miss., the 
whole forming one of the greatest railroad systems of the 
country. 

Belt Line. — The Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac 
and the Richmond and Petersburg companies have a "belt 
line" connecting their roads west of Richmond and Man- 
chester, and crossing the James river upon a beautiful iron 
bridge located a short distance from the New Reservoir. 

Steamer Lines. — The following are the regular steamer 
lines: The Old Dominion steamships from New York, stop- 
ping at Norfolk, Portsmouth, and City Point, and passing 
Fortress Monroe (Old Point), Newport News, Jamestown, 
Westover, Harrison's Landing, Bermuda Hundred, Dutch 
Gap, Drewry's Bluff (Fort Darling), and scores of other 
points of historic interest; James River Steamboat Com- 
pany, to Newport News, Old Point, Norfolk, Portsmouth, 
and all James river landings ; the Clyde line, for Phila- 
delphia. 



14 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, Ac. 



TIME AND DISTANCES. 

Railroads strike out from the city in every direction, and 
the time-tables show the following facts : 



TO 


Hrs. 


Miles. 




20 


549 


Augusta, Ga. . . . 


19 


473 


Baltimore, Md. . . . 


5 


156 


Beaufort, S. C. . . . 


20 


530 


Boston, Mass. . . . 


20 


572 


Buffalo, N. Y. . . 


23 


578 


Charleston, S. C. . . 


14 


457 


Charlotte, N. C. . . 


10 


282 


Chattanooga, Tenn. 


21 


494 


Chicago, 111 


30 


880 


Cincinnati, 0. . . . 


20 


580 




00 


64o 


Columbus, 0. . . . 


21 


566 


Columbia, S. C. . . 


15 


383 


Danville, Va. . . . 


5 


141 


Galveston, Tex. . . 


61 


1,532 


Greensboro, N. C. . 


7 


189 


Indianapolis, Ind. . 


24 


691 


Jacksonville, Fla. . 


21 


859 


Knoxville, Tenn. . 


17 


382 


Louisville, Ky. . . . 


24 


654 


Lynchburg, Va. . . 


6 


147 



TO 


Hrs. 


Miles. 


Lexington, Va . 


8 


196 


Lexington, Ky. . 


21 


560 


Lurav, Va 


7 


179 


Memphis, Tenn. . 


32 


1,001 


Mobile, Ala. . . . 


31 


904 


Montgomery, Ala. 


25 


724 


New York .... 


1QK 


344 


New Orleans, La. 


36 


1,044 


Nashville, Tenn. . 


26 


647 


Norfolk, Va. . . . 


3 


104 


Natural Bridge, Va 


, 8 


196 


Old Point, Va . 


3 


85 


Philadelphia, Pa. 


8 


254 


Pittsburg, Pa. . . 


18 


490 


Baleigh, N. C. . . 


8 


181 


Savannah Ga. . . 


16 


558 


St. Louis, Mo. . . 


31 


914 


St. Augustine, Fla. 


21 


900 


Washington, D. C 


4 


116 


Wilmington, N. C. 


7 


246 


Weldon, N. C. . . 


2% 


84 



The Street Railways of Richmond and Manchester have 
been wonderfully extended in recent years, and along with 
them have grown the suburbs, once an insignificant feature 
of the city, now our great pride. The lovely hills north 
and west of the city are covered with villas, and Barton 
Heights, Chestnut Hill, Highland Park, River View, and 
Forest Hill Park have sprung into existence as considerable 
communities. 

Most of these localities and nearly every point of histori- 
cal interest are reached by the street-cars (fare five cents), 
of which we have the following lines: 

1. Main-street. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 15 

2. Broad-street. 

3. Union Passenger. 

4. Marshall-street. 

5. Manchester Railway and Improvement Company. 

6. Richmond and Manchester. 

7. South side Land and Improvement Company. 

8. River View Improvement Company. 

9. Seven Pines road. (Round trip 20 cents.) 

Total mileage of routes, 32^ miles, and most of the com- 
panies have double tracks ; say 50 miles of tracks. On the 
chief lines the motive power used is electricity. 

The Main-street Line, beginning in Pulton (Rich- 
mond's most eastern section), passes the Old Dominion 
Steamship Company's wharves, St. John's church (within 
two blocks, or squares, as they are called here), Libby 
Prison site (within one square), "Old Stone House," the First 
Market, Post-office and Custom House, Capitol and Capi- 
tol Square, the beautiful Ryrd-street railroad station (within 
two squares), Gamble's Hill Park (within foursquares), and 
runs alongside Monroe Park for several hundred yards ; 
goes quite near to Hollywood, and from Monroe Park pro- 
ceeds out Main street to the New Reservoir Park and Sol- 
diers' Home. 

The Broad-street Line begins at Ninth and Main, and 
thence proceeds up Ninth, past the Capitol and Capitol 
Square, Washington monument, St. Paul's church, and 
City Hall, to Broad street — the home of the retail trade, 
and the broadest street (105 feet wide) in the city proper. 
The cars pass Murphy's Hotel, the Second market, long 
lines of stores for the sale of dry goods, the Masonic Tem- 
ple, and still up Broad to Laurel, and down Laurel (past 
Monroe Park) to Holtywood Cemetery. 

The Union Line begins at Twenty-ninth and P streets 
(not far from Oakwood Cemetery) and passes down Church 
Hill avenue to Franklin, up Franklin to Bank street 



16 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

(rounding the Capitol Square), and again returns to Frank- 
lin (passes General Lee's war-time residence, now the 
home of the Virginia Historical Society), thence up Seventh 
to Clay,* out Clay to Hancock (within a short distance 
of Hartshorn Memorial College), out Hancock and Har- 
rison (near to Richmond College and Lee monument and 
Exposition grounds), and thence to Reservoir street and 
past Hollywood Cemetery and the Old or Marshall reservoir, 
and thence to Ashland street, past Harvietown and the Mali' 
Orphan Asylum to the New Reservoir Park and the city's 
new pump-house. 

The Main and Broad-street Lines enter the Reservoir 
Park on the north side ; the Union on the south side. 

The Union Lino has a branch running from Seventeenth 
and Franklin streets up Seventeenth to the Chesapeake 
and Ohio shops and Richmond Locomotive Works. Also 
another branch from Fifth and Clay to Baker (near to the 
Almshouse, City Hospital, Shockoe Cemetery, and Jewish 
Burying-Ground), and up Baker nearly to Brook avenue. 
Going eastward to the point of beginning, this line de- 
bouches from Church Hill avenue up Marshall street to 
Twenty-fourth, down Twenty-fourth to Broad, down Broad 
past old St. John's church and burying-ground to Twenty- 
ninth, up Twenty-ninth to P, where its sheds are located. 

The Marshall-street Line begins at Mayo's bridge 
and follows a route up Fourteenth to College, up College 
(past the Virginia Medical College) to Marshall, and up 
Marshall (near the Jeff. Davis mansion) to the Exposition 
grounds. For most of its length it parallels the Broad- 
street and Union lines, and is but one square from each. 

This line, which was built by the Manchester Railway 
and Improvement Company, and is now owned by the City 
Railway Company, is extended across Mayo's bridge to 

* Connection made at First and Clay for Barton Heights ; at Seventh 
and Clay for Chestnut Hill. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 17 

Manchester, where its tracks are laid along a very desirable 
route, up Decatur street to Chestnut Hill and Highland 
Park. 

The River View Line connects that suburb and Harvie- 
town with the' Main-street line. 

The Seven Pines Road (operated by electricity) reaches 
from Twenty-sixth and P streets (near the eastern terminus 
of the electric line), past the Masonic Home, to the battle- 
field of Seven Pines — eight miles. 

The Richmond and Manchester Line connects the 
two cities by way of the Free bridge. 

The Southside Land and Improvement Company connects 
with it in Manchester and extends to Forest Hill Park, on 
Manchester's suburbs ; also connects with it in Richmond, 
and extends from the Free bridge to Chestnut Hill. 

Our Products, Trade, and Water-Power. — Richmond is a 
great manufacturing centre for tobacco, iron, flour, &c, 
and is a distributing point for provisions, dry goods, cloth- 
ing, notions, medicines, hardware, agricultural machinery, 
etc., and most of the Southern and many of the Western 
States are among our patrons. 

It is a citj' plenteously supplied with water-power, and 
rich in facilities by river and rail for receiving raw material 
and sending out manufactured products. Its goods, to- 
bacco particularly, go to every State in the Union and to 
almost all the lands of the earth. 

In recent years Richmond has made astonishing strides 
in population, in manufactures, in the jobbing trade, in 
general commerce and business of every description, but in 
nothing has her progress been more strikingly exemplified 
than in the great number of elegant residences built. 

Richmond is one hundred and sixteen miles south of 
Washington by the nearest (Fredericksburg) railroad route, 
and is one hundred and twenty-seven miles from the At- 



18 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

lantic ocean, following the meanders of the river's chan- 
nel. Vessels drawing sixteen or seventeen feet of water 
come to our wharves, and Congress is pledged to a plan of 
improvement which will give us, at high tide, twenty-five 
feet to the sea. The climate is dry and invigorating. Freez- 
ing weather but seldom comes, and rarely lasts longer than 
three or four days at a time. 

One of the most beautiful features of Richmond is its nu- 
merous parks. They are all on high hills, and charming 
views spread out before them. All'are reached by streetcars. 

The churches and places of worship number eighty-five, 
and the denominations represented are : Baptist, Methodist, 
Christian, Catholic, Episcopal. Presbyterian, Jewish, Lu- 
theran (English and German), Friends, etc. 

A recent table, prepared to show the percentage of crime 
in the principal cities of the country, puts Richmond in the 
place of honor as a well-ordered community. 

The principal streets and many houses are lighted by 
electricity. 

The Trade Organizations here are the Chamber of Com- 
merce (George L. Christian president and R. A. Dunlop sec- 
retary), the Tobacco Exchange, the Grain and Cotton Ex- 
change, and the Stock Exchange. All of these have suita- 
ble homes, and the Chamber of Commerce has a fine, large 
building of its own. 

Social Clubs. — The chief clubs here are : The Westmore- 
land, at the southeast corner of Grace and Sixth streets ; 
the Commonwealth, southwest corner Franklin and Mon- 
roe streets; the Albemarle, northwest corner of Main and 
First streets; the Mercantile, on Marshall between Eighth 
and Ninth streets; and the Commercial, on Main between 
Ninth and Tenth streets. 

Hotels. — The chief hotels here are as follows : Exchange 
Hotel and Ballard House, A. W. Archer, proprietor; Ford's 
Hotel, A. J. Ford, proprietor; Murphy's European Hotel, 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 19 

John Murphy, proprietor; Lexington Hotel, A. D. Atkinson, 
proprietor; Hotel Dodson, Charles B. Dodson, proprietor; 
Davis House (European plan), John Small, proprietor; Com- 
mercial House, J. C. Smith, proprietor; St. Charles Hotel, 
\Y. C. McDowell, proprietor: St. Claire Hotel, Charles G. 
Pettit, proprietor. 



II. 

Capitol and Surroundings. 




pHE most venerable public building in the city is 

Up 

yH the Capitol (State House). Standing upon the brow 
of a commanding eminence (Shockoe Hill) and in 
the midst of a lovely park of twelve acres, it may be 
seen for miles. "Here, on this Capitoline Hill," 
said Rev. Dr. Moses D. Hoge, in his address at the 
unveiling of Stonewall Jackson's Statue, "we are in sight 
of that historic river [called by th< j Indians Powhatan, by 
the Colonists the James] that more than two centuries and 
a half ago bore on its bosom the bark freighted with the 
civilization of the North American continent, and on 
whose bank Powhatan wielded his sceptre and Pocahontas 
launched her skiff ; we are under the shadow of that Capitol 
whose foundations were laid before the Federal Constitution 
was framed, and from which the edicts of Virginia went 
forth over her realm, that stretched from the Atlantic to 
the Mississippi — edicts framed by some of the patriots whose 
manly forms on yonder monument still gather around him 
whose name is the purest in human history." 

Within the enclosure of the Capitol Square are the Capi- 
tol, the Executive Mansion, the new Library Building, the 
"Washington Monument, the Stonewall Jackson Statue, the 
Statue of Henry Clay, and the "Bell House," the last a 
tower-like structure, once the " guard-house " for the State 
soldiers (Public Guard), who, in olden times, were employed 
as police about the public property, and constituted the 
only " standing army " of State establishment in the Union, 



GUIDE T()!RICHMOND, &c. 



23 




From the Bell House fire alarms and summonses for mem- 
bers of the Legislature were formerly sounded. Thence 
during the war issued the peals which called out for local- 
defence purposes every man and boy who could shoulder a 
musket. 

The Executive Mansion (the residence provided by the 
State for her 
Governor) i s 
at the east end 
of the broad 
avenue lead- 
ing from th« j 
m o n u m e n t. 
B. H. Latrobe 
was the archi- 
tect of it, and 
it was built 

during the years 1811, 1812, and 1813. James Barbour was 
the first Governor who occupied it, and it has been occu- 
pied by every Governor since. The present building was 
preceded by one sometimes called the " Governor's Palace," 
a plain, common-looking wooden structure, which was 
taken down after this was erected. 

The present occupant of the Executive Mansion is the 
Hon. Charles T. O'Ferrall, of Rockingham county. 

The trees in the square (park), remarkable for size and 
beauty, are filled with squirrels so tame that they will eat 
from the hand. 

The Statuary in the Capitol Square.— Cultivated travellers 
freely concede that there is no work of the kind in this 
country, and few in the world, at all comparable with the 
Washington Monument. [See the engraving on the front of 
the cover.] It consists of an imposing column of Rich- 
mond granite, rising from a star-shaped base, surmounted 
by a gigantic equestrian statue of Washington, and on 






24 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

pedestals around and beneath him figures of the following : 
Patrick Henry, whose eloquence fired the hearts of the 
patriots in the revolution ; George Mason, the author of the 
Virginia Bill of Rights ; Thomas Jefferson, the author of 
the Declaration of Independence ; Governor Thomas Nel- 
son, Jr., to whose patriotism and purse the victory at York- 
town was largely attributable ; Andrew Lewis, under whose 
leadership as Indian conqueror the Virginians made a path- 
way to the West, and John Marshall, the most distinguished 
Chief-Justice of the United States Supreme Court. 

The following shows the places of the statuary and the 
inscriptions on the shields of the allegorical figures occupy- 
ing the lower pediments : 

Finance opposite Nelson {saratoga!*' 

Colonial Times . .opposite Lewis -. . { vane^Fofg"^ 1 *' 

Justice opposite Marshall { |£^ p ^ e " 

Revolution opposite Henry \ $ £££ Springs. 

Independence . . opposite Jefferson j p r \"f C eton° UntaiU ' 

Bill of Rights . . . opposite Mason | g^i^. jjjji " 

The monument and most of the figures were modelled by 
Crawford, the designer, also, of the bronze figure of Liberty 
on the dome of the Capitol at Washington, and of the statue 
of Beethoven at Boston. Mr. Crawford died in 1857, and 
the unfinished work — statues of Nelson and Lewis and the 
allegorical figures — was executed by Randolph Rogers, 
much of whose labor is to be seen in the Capitol at Wash- 
ington. Our equestrian statue is 20J feet from the rider's 
chapeau to the plinth upon which the horse's feet rest. The 
pedestrian statues are each ten feet high. The entire cost 
of the monument (including statuary) was $259,913.26. 

The corner-stone was laid February 22, 1850, aud Wash- 
ington's statue was unveiled February 22, 1858, but the en- 
tire work was not completed until 1808. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



25 



The bronze figures were all cast at the Royal foundry at 
Munich. 

Stonewall Jackson. — On the north side of the avenue, 
between the Washington monument and the Governor's 
house, is the bronze statue of Stonewall Jackson. It stands 
upon a pedestal of Virginia granite ten feet high. It is of 
heroic size, and is one of the best works of the late Mr. 
Foley, the great English sculptor, who was chosen by the 
Royal Commission to make the colossal statue of Prince 
Albert for the memorial in Hyde Park, of which he exe- 
cuted also the group "Asia." This statue of Jackson was 
ordered by the Right Honorable A. J. Beresford-Hope and 




THE STATUE OF STONEWALL JACKSON. 



26 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

other admirers of " Stonewall " Jackson, and was presented 
to Virginia by them, duly accepted by the General Assem- 
bly, and unveiled on the 26th of October, 1875, with great 
ceremony. The following is the. inscription : 

"Presented by English gentlemen as a tribute of admiration for the 
soldier and patriot, Thomas J. Jackson, and gratefully accepted by Vir- 
ginia in the name of the Southern people. Done A. D. 1875, in the hun- 
dredth year of the Commonwealth. 

" Look ! There is Jackson standing like a stone wall." 
The Capitol. — The Maison Carree, an ancient Roman Tem- 
ple of Nismes, France, and now the municipal museum of 
that city, was the model selected by Mr. Jefferson for the 
Capitol of Virginia, but it was not strictly adhered to in 
the construction of the edifice. The corner-stone was laid 
August 18, 1785, "the Capitol" then being in a plain and 
small wooden structure on the west side of Fourteenth 
street between Main and Cary. 

The ground floor (generally called "the basement offices ") 
contains the offices of the Auditor of Public Accounts, Sec- 
ond Auditor, Treasurer, and Register of the Land Office 
(ex-officio Superintendent of Public Buildings). 

In the Land Office are the oldest State records in America. 
They are continuous from the year 1620 (when the Capitol 
of Virginia was at Jamestown) to this time. On the floor 
above are the two Legislative Chambers. In the rotunda, 
or quadrangle, rather, between them, is Houdoris Statue of 
-V-"" Washington — "a facsimile of Washington's person," said 
Lafayette. 

Houdon, a celebrated French sculptor, employed by the 
General Assembly to do this work, was two weeks with 
Washington at Mount Vernon, in October, 1785, "during 
which time he took a cast of Washington's face, head, and 
upper pari of the body, and minute measurements of his 
person, and then returned to Paris to do his work." 

Copies of the statue have been taken by Valentine and 
Hubard. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 2? 

This statue was erected May 14, 1796. The following is 
the inscription (written by Madison) : 

" The General Assembly of the Commonwealth of Virginia have caused 
this statue to be erected as a monument of affection and gratitude to 
George Washington, who, uniting to the endowment of the hero the 
virtues of the patriot, and exerting both in establishing the liberties of 
his country, has rendered his name dear to his fellow-citjzens and given 
to the world an immortal example of true glory. 

" Done in the year of Christ one thousand seven hundred and eighty- 
eight, and in the year of the Commonwealth the twelfth." 

Houdon was the great sculptor of his day. His best 
known works are Diana (made for the Empress of Russia), 
the seated statue of Voltaire at the Theatre Francaise, " The 
Shivering Woman," and the statue of a muscular skeleton 
of the human body, which last has been reproduced over 
and over for the artistic study of anatomy. Among his last 
works were busts of Napoleon and Josephine and the statue 
of Cicero in the Luxembourg. 

The Bust of Lafayette, which occupies a niche in the wall 
near the statue of Washington, was also made hy Houdon. 
The original was presented by Virginia to the city of Paris, 
and then this copy was ordered for the State of Virginia. 

The Senate Chamber (entrance from the rotunda, or quad- 
rangle more properly) was occupied during the war as the 
Confederate House of Representatives. A fine picture of 
" The Storming of a Redoubt at Yorktown," by Lami, an 
eminent French painter (a work presented to the State by 
Mr. W. W. Corcoran), hangs on the wall opposite the Presi- 
dent's chair. 

Lami was a pupil of Horace Vernet. Some of his histor- 
ical paintings, such as the battle of Casano, the capture of 
Maestricht, the Fights at Hondscoot and Watignies, and 
the Capitulation of Anvers, are in the galleries of Versailles. 
The Battle of the Alma is another of his productions. 

A fine picture of General R. E. Lee, by Elder, hangs on 
the wall opposite the gallery during the legislative session, 



28 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



\ 



^UUTl 



and at other times is to be seen in the Library above. At the 
other end of the Capitol is the Hall of the House of Delegates. 
Here Aaron Burr was tried for treason before Chief-Justice 
Marshall ; here the State Secession Convention met in 1861. 
Pictures of Chatham and Jefferson hang upon the walls. 

April 27, 1870, while the State Court of Appeals, sitting 
in its room directly above this hall, was hearing the con- 
tested election case of Ellyson vs. Chahoon, the floor broke 
under the weight of the great crowd, and sixty-five men 
were killed and two hundred wounded by being precipitated 
into this hall. The ceiling and gallery of the court-room 
fell upon them, smothering in the debris many who might 
have survived the fall. 

Rotunda Gallery —In the gal- 
lery are hung great numbers of 
portraits of historical person- 
ages. 

A curiosity here is the old 
Store, which was made in Eng- 
land in 1770 by one Buzaglo, 
and sent over by the Duke of 
Beauford as a present to the 
Colony of Virginia. It was used 
in warming the House of Bur- 
gesses at Williamsburg until 
the capital was removed to 
Richmond, and was in use here 
for three-quarters of a century 
at least, but is now retired from 
service. The founder, Buzaglo, 
thus wrote of the "warming 
machine" (1770): "The ele- 
gance of workmanship does 
honor to Great Britain. It ex- 
cels in grandeur anything ever OLD STOVE IN CAPITOL. 




30 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

seen of the kind, and is a masterpiece not to be equalled in 
all Europe. It has met with general applause, and could 
not be sufficiently admired." This stove is about seven 
feet in height. 

On the floor above the Legislative Halls, with entrances 
from the rotunda gallery, are the State Library and offices 
of the Governor and Secretary of the Commonwealth. Since 
the Capitol Disaster there has been a rearrangement of the 
rooms over the hall of the House. 

The chamber of the Confederate Senate was in the corner 
covered by the Governor's new rooms. 

The State Library has the largest and handsomest rooms 
in the Capitol. Upon its shelves are 40,000 volumes, many 
rare and valuable MSS., and a variety of objects of interest, 
among them the following well worth inspection : 1. Speak- 
j^ er's Chair of the House of Burgesses in Colonial Times ; 
2. Portraits of Governors in Colonial and later Times ; 3. The 
Parole signed by Lord Cornwallis' own hand at Yorktown : 
4. Original MS. of the Virginia Bill of Rights— the first in 
America ; 5. The Lawyer's Fee-Book of Patrick Henry ; 
6. Autograph of Washington at seventeen years of age, with 
specimens of his work as a land surveyor ; 7. Jefferson's 
Marriage Bond ; 8. Specimens of Continental and Confede- 
rate Money ; 9. MS. of Stonewall Jackson's last dispatch. 

[The State Library is soon to be removed to a new build- 
ing now being erected for it in the Capitol Square.] 

View from the Platform on the Roof of the Capitol.— There 

is a platform on the roof of the Capitol which may be reached 
by any one with safety. The view is good. The janitor will 
point out places of interest, including some battle-fields, of 
which fair glimpses may be had. 

The Marble Statue of Clay, which stands under a canopy 
located in the Square between the Capitol and the bell- 
house, is by Hart, and was presented to Virginia by the 



dfc~**!g 



■ 




III 








32 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &C. 

countrywomen of this great tribune of the people, and was 
unveiled with imposing ceremonies April 12, 1860. 

City Hall. — The building on the square north of the Capi- 
tol, just beyond Jackson's statue, is the City Hall. It occu- 
pies the site of the old City Hall (built in 1815) and that of 
the First Presbyterian church (removed to the northeast 
corner of Grace and Madison streets). The corner-stone of 
the new City Hall was laid on the 5th of April, 1887, and it 
was ready for use in the spring of 1894. The design was 
made by Mr. E. E. Myers, of Detroit, Mich., and the struct- 
ure cost in the neighborhood of $1,500,000. The stone is 
the celebrated James river granite, of which there are 
almost inexhaustible quarries all around this city. The 
work of construction was done under. City Engineer W. E. 
Cutshaw. 

From the City Hall tower, reached by elevator, is a grand 
view of the city and surrounding country. 

Confederate Landmarks Identified.— [These skirt the Cap- 

tol Square, and are placed here in proper sequence for visit- 
ing.] The Confederate Post-Office Department was in God- 
din Hall, a stuccoed edifice southeast corner Eleventh and 
Bank streets, about one hundred yards from the Capitol 
portico. The building was destroyed by the great fire of 
the evacuation. The present one covers the exact site, and 
is in nearly the same style of the old one. Fifty yards up 
Bank street is the Custom-House and Post-Office (recently 
remodelled), one of the few buildings on either side of Main 
street between Eighth and Thirteenth left standing by the 
evacuation fire. The office of President Davis was on the 
third floor, second room to the left entering from the Bank- 
street door, now occupied by Mr. M. F. Pleasants, clerk of 
the United States Circuit Court. The rooms on the Bank- 
street floor were occupied by various offices of government, 
and the Main-street floor (previous to and since the war the 
City Post-Office) by the Confederate Treasury. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 33 

On the west side of Ninth street, where Bank street ter- 
minates, was the Mechanics' Institute, used for the Con- 
federate War and Nav}^ Departments. It was burned by the 
evacuation fire. Going up Ninth street northwardly a square 
and a half, and #£. PauVs church (Episcopal) is reached. Its 
spire is remarkable for grace and symmetry. Sunday, 
April 2, 1865, President Davis was at worship in this church 
when notified by telegram from General Lee that the city 
must be evacuated. The hotel building (now St. Claire) 
opposite St. Paul's was used by the Second Auditor's office 
of the Treasury Department. The Provost Marshal's office 
was in a large framed house (the "Winder Building"), 
erected for the purpose, on the west side or Tenth street 
between Broad and Capitol, to the north of the Washington 
statue. 

Valent'ne's Studios. — The studios and gallery of E. V. 
Valentine, sculptor (open to visitors), are at 809 east Leigh 
street. Here may be seen, in addition to the original plas- 
ter of the "Lee Recumbent Figure," the marble of which 
is in the Mausoleum annex to Washington and Lee Univer- 
sity chapel, Lexington, replicas of the sculptor's "Woman 
of Samaria," "The Penitent Thief," "Judas," &c, and 
busts of various Confederate celebrities; also, studies by his 
master, Kiss, including the original full-size head and the 
miniature plaster group of the Amazon; also, his "An- 
dromache and Astyanix," in marble. This last is a Homeric 
group, illustrating the sadness and forebodings of Androma- 
che immediately after parting with Hector, and is Valen- 
tine's greatest and best effort in ideal art. • 



'T 



III. 

Eastern Part of the City. 

[Route for carriage drive of two hours.] 



JN making a lour of the city start from the Capitol. The 
usual plan is to visit first the eastern or old portion 
of the city, and then the western or new part. Tin 
Jeff. Dams Mansion, corner Clay and Twelfth streets, 
as the former "White House of the Confederacy," is 
popularly called, is only four or five squares from the Capi- 
tol. It is three stories high, of brick, painted. Here, for 
nearly four years. Mr. Davis and family resided; here he 
held his most important councils with General R. E. Lee; 
and here his little son Joseph met his death by a fall from 
the porch. The house is now being converted into a Con- 
federate Museum and Library. When the Capitol of the 
Confederacy was removed from Montgomery to Richmond, 
this house was put-chased by the city and tendered as a 
present to Mr. Davis. As such he declined to receive it, 
but he consented to occupy il for his term, leaving the title 
in the city. After the occupation of Richmond by the 
Union forces in 1865, till the restoration of civil govern- 
ment in 1870. the building was occupied in whole or in part 
as a residence or headquarters by the Military Commanders 
of this district, viz. : Generals Godfrey Weitzel, E. O. C. 
Ord, H. W. Halleck, A. H. Terry, John M. Schofield, George 
Stoneman. Alexander S. Webb, and E. R. S. Canby. 

In the rear of the Davis mansion is the Central school 
building; which school had its quarters in the Davis man- 
sion from 1871 to 1894. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



Diagonally across the street from the Davis mansion is 
the University College of Medicine, at the head of which 
is Dr. Hunter McGuire, who was the medical director of 
Stonewall Jackson's army corps. 

The handsome building on the brink of the hill, about 
one hundred yards north of the Davis house, is the Colored 
Normal School. 



k 







'•THE WHITE HOUSE OF THE CONFEDERACY." 

[Now Davis Museum and Library.] 

Down Broad Street. — Returning to Broad, by way of 

Twelfth street, we soon come to the Monumental Church 

(Episcopal), which marks the spot where stood the Rich- 



36 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &C. 

mond Theatre, destroyed by fire December 26, 1811 (while 
" The Bleeding Nun " was being played), burning to death 
Governor G. W. Smith and fifty-nine others. The crypt in 
the portico contains the names and ashes of the victims. 
Immediately in the rear of this church, facing College 
V- street, is the Medical College of Virginia, a handsome build- 
ing in the Egyptian style of architecture. The "Retreat 
^ for the Sick " is west of the College, and fronts on Twelfth 
street. The brick church, seen after the Monumental is 
y passed, is the "■First African" the oldest colored church 
organization in the city, and one of the very largest in point 
of membership in the land. Half a mile onward, and on 
the hill beyond the .valley, St. John's Church is reached. 
The grading of the streets has left the church and grave- 
yard surrounding it high up above the sidewalks, from 
which they are approached by flights of stone steps. The 
building was erected in 1740, and though it has been from 
time to time altered and improved, it is substantially the 
same which in 1775 echoed the speech of Patrick Henry to 
the Virginia Convention sounding the key-note of the Revo- 
lution, " Give me liberty, or give me death.'" The oldest 
tomb-stone, that of Rev. Robert Rose, is of date 1751. Ser- 
vices (Episcopal) are regularly held in St. John's. 

Leaving the church, in five minutes we are at Libby Hill 
or Marshall Park. 

The monument standing here is nearly 100 feet high and 
was erected at a cost of about $35,000, and was unveiled 
with imposing ceremonies May 30, 1894. The column is a 
reduced reproduction of Pompey's Pillar, which stands 
near Alexandria, Egypt, and the bronze figure is the design 
of W. L. Sheppard and Caspar Buberl. 

From this point the view of the city and country-side is 
charming. On the left is Chimborazo Park, where stood 
the largest Confederate hospital, occupying barracks-like 
buildings, which covered acres and acres of ground. There 




ipp-' 



38 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &C. 

scores of thousands of soldiers were treated, and many died 
from wounds or diseases. The buildings, or many of them, 
stood until a few y ears ago, when they were cleared away 
so that the propert}^ might be used for park purposes. Look- 
ing down the river on the Richmond shore, we see the 
Richmond Cedar Works, the extensive plant of the Rich- 
mond Chemical Works, and further on, the wharves of the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Railway Company. 

While there are many other good views here, this one 
from Libby Hill is not to be duplicated — it has peculiar 
charms of its own. Well may we here quote the language 
of the poet describing Richmond on the Thames, after 
which, because of resemblance of situation, Richmond on 
the James was named. 

'■ What a goodly prospect spreads around 
Of hills and dales, and woods and lawns and spires, 
And glittering towns and gilded streams." 

If the visitor desire, he can conveniently extend his drive 
from Libby Hill to Oakwood Cemetery, where 10,000 Con- 
federates are sleeping, and a monument rising midst their 
graves tells their story. 

In this cemetery the Union Colonel, Ulric Dahlgren (son 
of Admiral Dahlgren), who was killed in one of the "raids 
around Richmond," was interred. His father having made 
application to President Davis for the return of the body 
under flag of truce, men were sent to open the grave, secure 
and deliver up the bod}. It was found by them, however, 
that the grave (on the eastern slope of the cemetery) had 
been rifled. Some Richmond Unionists bad come in the 
night and stolen the body away. They carried it to the 
country, again buried it, and after the war delivered it to 
Admiral Dahlgren. 

Next the visitor should go to the Libby Prison site, Cary 
and Twentieth streets, upon which has recently been built 
the works of the Crystal Ice Company. Here, about 1850, 




• Illljl 



SOLDIERS' AND SAILORS' MONUMENT. 



40 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

was erected a building which afterwards obtained world- 
wide celebrity. It was constructed for storage purposes 
and was long occupied by Libby & Co., ship chandlers. It 
was a large, square, plain brick structure, and after the 
war began the Confederates secured it as a prison. It was 
used mostly to confine commissioned officers and for the 
reception and registration of privates destined for Ander- 
sonville, Salisbury, and Belle Isle. In this way some 40,000 
or 50,000 prisoners probably crossed its threshold. The 
office of the commandant was at the northwest corner. 
From this prison, in February, 1864, one hundred and nine 
prisoners, led by Colonel Streight, managed to escape. 
They got into the basement and tunnelled under the east 
wall into the premises adjoining, used for stable and storage 
purposes. More than half of them were recaptured. The 
building was used by the Southern Fertilizing company as 
a manufactory when, in February, 1888, it was purchased 
by a Chicago syndicate, and in 1889 it was taken down, 
brick by brick, loaded on cars, and removed to Chicago, 
where it has been re-erected, and is now known as the 
Libby Prison War Museum. 

A few minutes drive from the Libby and we are at the 
Old None House, Main street between Nineteenth and 
>* Twentieth. This is without question the oldest building 
now standing in Richmond. It is supposed to have been 
erected by one Jacob Ege, and tradition associates with it 
the names of Washington. Lafayette, Jefferson, Monroe, 
and other celebrities. Whatever may be its history, its 
antiquity is unquestionable, and it has been visited b} r thou- 
sands of strangers from all quarters of the globe. 

Driving up Main street to the Post-Office (which pretty 
well completes the circuit of the eastern section of the 
city), from Fourteenth street up only a few houses can be 
found which withstood the fire of the evacuation. The 
Post-Office is our of these ; everything immediately around 



42 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



it was burnt. All the handsome buildings now to be seen 
were erected since the war, when the people not only recom- 
menced life with no money and few friends, but with 
smouldering ruins marking the squares where had been 
their costliest bridges, depots, warehouses, factories, and 
stores. 




THE " OLD STONE HOUSE." 
[The most venerable building in Richmond.] 



IV 
Western Portion of the City. 

[Route for two or three hours' drive.] 



gUPPOSING that the visitor leave the Post-Office, on 

mfll his drive to the western or new portion of the city, 
"h*4Z and that the route be up Main street, he will in two 
§cpjM squares' distant pass the imposing building- of the 
Q* ^} Chamber of Commerce, and, at the further corner, 
the Pace Block, in which the Chesapeake and Ohio Railroad 
Company have their others. 

During the war the Spotswood Hotel stood on the lot where 
the Pace -building now is, and it was headquarters for all 
celebrities visiting here. It escaped the fire of the evacua- 
tion, but was burned December 25, 1870, when eight persons 
lost their lives in it. 

The next point on our visiting list is the cigarette works 
of Allen & Qinter, now known as the Allen & Ginter branch 
of the American Tobacco Company, at the southwest corner 
of Cary and Seventh streets. President Hayes' party, in 
1879, and the Marquis of Lome's, in 1882, found great 
delight in visiting the factory — as well to hear the girls 
sing at their work as to see the cigarettes turned out by their 
nimble fingers. The labor is all white. The house has a 
world-wide reputation. Its cigarettes and other products 
are sold in every part of the globe, and crowned heads and 
princes and the greatest as well as the humblest of earth 
are "puffing" their goods. 

Diagonally across the street from Allen & Ginter's is a 
famous plug tobacco factory— that of P. H. Mayo & Bro., 



44 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, S&c. 



**" 



incoriDorated, which' has an imposing front of about two 
hundred feet on Seventh street, between Main and Cary, is 
four to five stories high, forming a hollow square, and is 
one of the most completely equipped establishments in the 
country. 

At the southeast corner of Cary and Sixth streets are the 
unique and extensive works of Mann S. Valentine, origina- 
tor and manufacturer of Valentine's Meat Juice, which has 
a world-wide reputation and sale. 

Back to Main street, and at Sixth, we pass the Young 
M^n's Chris- 
tian Associa- 
tion Hall, which 
is one of the 
practical re- 
sults of the 
Moody meet- 
ings held here 
in 1885. 

The great 
evangelist, by 
his personal 
efforts here, 
raised a great 
part of the money, and the corner-stone was laid in 1885. 

The building contains a fine lecture hall, library, gym- 
nasium, parlors, school rooms, &c. 

At the intersection of Main and Fifth streets we pass the 
vacant lot on which formerly stood the Allan House. 

In the Allan House many years ago lived Mr. John Allan, 
who adopted and educated the poet, Edgar Allan Poe. In 
this house, in 1881, was held a great ball in honor of the La- 
fayette and Von Steuben families, and other representatives 
of France and Germany, who came here from the dedica- 
tion of the Yorktown Battle Monument. 




GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



45 



The next cross-street (Fourth) leads from Main to Gam- 
ble's Hill Park, which is noted for the view it offers of the 
river above and below tide, and scenes of busy life. 

The Park is skirted by handsome residences, of which 
"Pratt's Castle" is one of the most prominent and unique. 







■vmsmmaum 



PRATT'S CASTLE, GAMBLE'S HILL. 
Between the canal and the river is the Tredegar, one of 
largest manufacturing establishments in the country. Dur- 
ing the war it largely supplied the Confederacy with can- 
non and shot and shell. Belle Isle is also in full view. For 



46 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



some time during the war a prison camp was here. The 
prisoners were quartered in tents on the lowland. The Old 
Dominion Iron and Nail Works Company, of which Mr. 
Arthur B. Clarke is president, occupy the island for their 
purposes. The State Penitentiary is to the right of Gam- 
ble's Hill; its high walls at once indicate that it is a prison. 
It went into operation March 20, 1809, and has suffered from 
fire on several occasions. At the evacuation, April 3, 1865, 
the guard (a company of State "regulars") having been 
withdrawn from the city with the Confederate troops, the 
prisoners broke out, and a mob of ruffians broke in for pur- 
poses of robbery, and the buildings were fired and several 
of them destroyed. 

When Aaron Burr was here on trial for treason before 
Chief-Justice Marshall, he was confined in the penitentiary 
in one of the rooms then set apart for the Superintendent's 
use, but now devoted to other purposes. 

Hollywood and Beyond. — From Gamble's Hill to Holly- 




HOLLYVVOOD GATE, 
wood Cemetery is a ten-minutes' drive, and it is a beautiful 
spot to visit. The entrance is through a "ruined " portal, 
the "granite of which is nearly covered by vines. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 47 

A massive pyramid of undressed James river granite, 
ninety feet high, stands as a monument to the twelve thou- 
sand Confederate dead buried around it. 

On President's Hill, overlooking the river, are buried 
Presidents Monroe and Tyler. The grave of the latter has 
as yet no stone to mark it. It is within twenty steps of 
Monroe's, and within a few feet of the marble figure of the 
Virgin Mary over his (Mr. Tyler's) daughter's resting-place. 
A tomb of iron and granite covers Monroe, who died in 
New York in 1831, and was disinterred and removed to 
Richmond in 1858. John Randolph of Roanoke is also 
buried in this cemetery. His grave, at the west end of Roan- 
oke avenue, is covered by an enduring tablet of granite. 

The grave of the Hon. Jefferson Davis is near by. By his 
side two of his children are buried — one of whom ("little 
Joe ") was accidentally killed at the President's residence 
in Richmond during the war. Mr. Davis' grave has no 
monument over it, but preparations are being made to 
mark it suitably; also to erect to Mr. Davis' memory an 
imposing monument at the Soldiers' Home, or at some 
other suitable place in or near the city. Mr. Davis died in 
New Orleans December 6, 1889, and his body was brought 
here and reinterred in May, 1893. 

Here in this cemetery also lie Major-General George E. 
Pickett, who led the charge of the Virginia Division at 
Gettysburg ; William Smith, Major-General in the Confede- 
rate army and twice Governor of Virginia ; General J. E. B. 
Stuart, the famous cavalryman ; Commodore M. F. Maury, 
"the pathfinder of the seas"; Henry A. Wise, celebrated 
as Governor and General ; Hon. James A. Seddon, Confed- 
erate Secretary of War ; Thomas Ritchie, founder of the 
"Enquirer" and "Father of the Democratic Party"; 
John R. Thompson, the Poet ; Generals John R. Cooke, 
W. H. Stevens, and John Pegram ; John M. Daniel, the 
aggressive editor of the "Examiner" during the war; 



48 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

Caroline Richings-Bernard, the famous opera singer, and 
hundreds of others who were well known in the State. The 
grounds altogether contain eightj'-seven acres. 

The view from Hollywood of Richmond and Manchester, 
the winding of the river below the cities, and of the Falls 
of the James is excellent. In front (south) of Hollywood, 
down on the river bank, are the lower City Water Works. 
A dam half way across the river supplies the motive power 
and feeds the pumps. Returning to the cemetery you can 
pass out of the western gate and drive to the Marshall (old) 
Reservoir, which is surrounded by pretty beds of flowers 
and shrubbery. 

The grounds of this reservoir have a tragic interest, as 
on the night of the 13th of March, 1885, Thomas J. Cluve- 
rius, a young lawyer of King and Queen county, led his 
cousin, Fannie Lillian Madison (whom he had basely be- 
trayed), into them by an opening in the fence nearest Holly- 
wood, and having knocked her insensible, threw her body 
in the water, where it was found next morning. He was 
arrested on the 18th ; tried in May, convicted, and on Janu- 
ary 14, 1887, was hanged in Richmond jail. Miss Madison, 
who was a native of King William, and resident of Bath 
county when brought here and murdered, is buried at 
Oak wood. 

West of Hollywood is River View Cemetery (city prop- 
erty) and Mount Calvary (Catholic), both recently laid out. 
The latter particularly is destined to be a beautiful spot. 

The New Reservoir Pari, is half a mile still farther west- 
ward. The fields between the two were once almost cov- 
ered by the great Confederate hospitals Winder and Jackson. 

The collection of houses to the left constitute " Harvie- 
town." It consists in considerable part of the buildings 
erected soon after the war by the United States Govern- 
ment as quarters for troops. The place was then called 
Camp Grant. The large brick building is the Male Orphan 
Asylum, Mrs. J. R. Gill, superintendent. 




TOMB OF MONROE IN HOLLYWOOD. 



50 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

The New Reservoir is on an elevated plateau, and is sur- 
rounded by a park of 300 acres. This reservoir covers llf 
acres — that is, it is the size of the Capitol Square — and has 
a capacity of 40,000,000 gallons. 

The New Pump-House, half a mile southwest of the 
reservoir, at the Three-Mile Locks, is the main means of 
supplying the city with water. The power comes down the 
canal from the river six miles above this point. 

The New Reservoir, with its drives, walks, lake and boats, 
its great avenues lined with shade-trees, its pavilions for 
pic-nic parties, and beautiful pumps (water and steam 
power), is one of the great attractions of the city. 

Passing out of the Reservoir grounds by the Boulevard, 
you come to the Lee Camp Soldiers' Home — a large building 
and collection of pretty cottages set in the midst of a grove 
of oaks. This home for the war-worn warriors of the 
Confederate States was bought and paid for b} r private sub- 
scriptions, and is now maintained by appropriations from 
the State, from the city, and gifts of private persons. 

From the Soldiers' Home, looking northward, } r ou see the 
Exposition Buildings, erected on the Fair Grounds in 1888 
at a cost of $70,000. Beyond it, on the Brook road, are sev- 
eral of the finest country houses in Virginia, chief among 
which are those of Mr. Joseph Bryan, Major Lewis Ginter, 
and Dr. Hunter McGuire. The roads, avenues, and groves 
in that immediate neighborhood are very lovely. At the 
intersection of two of these avenues is the monument to 
Lieut. -Gen. A. P. Hill, C. S. A., who was killed on the eve 
of the evacuation of Petersburg. The statue was unveiled 
May 30, 1892. 

During the war of 1861-5 the Fair Grounds were known 
as Camp Lee, and thousands of troops encamped there. 

The usual route from the Soldiers' Home to the city is 
down Grove road, a charming avenue lined with handsome 
cottages set in the midst of lawns, flowers, and shade-trees. 




THE LEE MONUMENT. 



52 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

At Vine street you come into full view of the Lee Monu- 
ment, and a drive of two or three hundred yards brings you 
to it — in the centre of Lee Circle — which is at the west end 
of Franklin street. Here fifty-eight acres of land have been 
laid off into lots, and will in a few years be occupied by 
fashionable residences. 

Lee Circle is a piece of ground 200 feet in diameter, where 
Monument avenue and Allen avenue (each 140 feet wide) 
intersect. The site was given to the monument association 
by Major Otway S. Allen and his sisters — Mrs. Roger B. 
Gregory and Mrs. N. M. Wilson. The corner-stone of the 
monument was laid October 27, 1887, and the statue was 
unveiled May 20, 1890: Mercie and Pujot (both of Paris) 
were the sculptor and architect, respectively. The total 
cost was about $75,000. 

The dedication of the monument on the 29th May, 1890, 
was the occasion of the greatest reunion of Confederate 
soldiers ever known. 

Coming into the city, down Franklin street, you pass 
Richmond College, a building of great size, standing in the 
centre of several acres of land, with numerous residences 
for its professors gathered about it. 

A square or two onward, and looking towards Broad 
street, you have a glimpse of the handsome freight houses 
of the Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac Railroad 
Company. 

On the right you pass Monroe Park (the old Fair Grounds), 
the centre of the fashionable West End. Here were camped 
in the early spring of 1861 the First regiment of South Caro- 
lina .troops, the first troops brought here from the South. 




MR. A. T. HARRIS' RESIDENCE, 
Facing Monroe Park. 



54 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 



Later the grounds were used for hospital purposes, and one- 
story buildings covered them. A few years after the war 
they were devoted to park purposes. The monument in the 
park is to Gen. Williams C. Wickham, and the figure is the 
work of the sculptor Valentine. 

At the southwest corner of Franklin and Monroe streets is 
the Commonwealth Club, a very handsome building of 
red brick and brown stone. 

At the southeast 
corner of Franklin 
and J e ff e r s o n 
streets "The (ho- 
tel) Jefferson" is 
being erected on 
the site of the resi- 
dence and gardens 
of the late Gen. 
Joseph R. Ander- 
son. Itisofcream- 
RESIDENCE OF MR. P. H. MAYO. colored brick, and 

is to be one of the finest structures of its kind in this coun- 
try. Major Lewis Ginter and Mr. John Pope are at the head 
of the company which is building the hotel. 

Now onward to the Capitol Square, whether you follow 
Franklin or Grace street, you are in the midst of elegant 
residences. At the southeast corner of Grace and Sixth 
streets is the famous old Westmoreland Club. 

Grace street (the street between Franklin and Broad) is 
so called from the great number of churches with which it 
is lined. 




]&&*FFtre?i>Tf&rf2 





cc 



V. 
Other Points of Interest. 




j||«|HILE it was not practicable to include in the fore- 
going drives the following places, nevertheless it 
should be understood that the}' are quite as worthy 
of visits as most others heretofore referred to, viz. : 
Shockoe Hill Cemetery, Jewish Cemetery, and City 
Almshouse, north end of Fourth street. 

In the first, Chief-Justice John Marshall, John Hampden 
Pleasants, and many others of distinction are buried ; in the 
second, there is a unique enclosure as of stacked muskets 
around the soldiers' section, and the Almshouse is one of 
the handsomest city buildings we have. 

Standing on the hill at the end of Fifth street (near the 
Jewish Cemetery) you see in the valley before yon the Rich- 
mond Locomotive and Machine Works. 

The viaduct and street railway lead to Chestnut Hill. 

To your left Barton Heights are in view, and to your 
right, in the valley, the round-house and workshops of the 
Chesapeake and Ohio Company. 

Next should be visited the solid, squarely-built old house 
which was once the residence of Chief-Justice Marshall, 
and late the residence of ex-Governor Henry A. Wise, north- 
west corner of Ninth and Marshall streets. 

The Richmond National Cemetery (to which a government 
road leads from Chimborazo Park), where thousands of 
Union soldiers are buried, is on the Williamsburg road, two 
miles from the city. The grounds are always well kept. It 
is but a short drive from this point to Fair Oaks (Seven 
Pines) battle-field. 



58 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &o. 

A visit to the Tobacco Exchange, Shockoe Slip, about 
noon will prove of interest. Most of the great warehouses 
for the inspection, sampling, and storing of leaf tobacco are 
in the neighborhood of the Exchange. Richmond is one of 
the foremost of the great tobacco markets, and "Virginia 
leaf " is renowned the world over, whether used in cigarettes, 
smoking or plug tobacco. 

The Masons' Hall, on Franklin street between Eighteenth 
and Nineteenth, is the oldest building in this country 
erected for Masonic purposes. The corner-stone was laid 
in October, 1785. and it is believed that the first meeting in 
it was that of the Grand Lodge, in 1796. The Masons have 
a beautiful temple at the southwest corner of Broad and 
Adams streets. 

The Richmond House, on Governor street, opposite the 
Governor's Mansion, used during the war as one of the 
bureau buildings of the Confederate Government, is now 
St. Luke's Home — Dr. Hunter McGuire's private hospital. 

Literature, Art, Miscellanies.— The Virginia Historical 
Society has a valuable library, with many rare MSS., por- 
traits of distinguished Virginians, &c, in their building, 
No. 707 east Franklin street, which was occupied during 
the war by the family of Gen. R. E. Lee. 

The Mozart Association give musical entertainments at 
the Academy. A large and prosperous German Society own 
Saenger Halle, and have frequent reunions and musical 
entertainments there. The Richmond Theatre and the 
Mozart Academy of Music are the largest and best places 
of amusement in the city. The Young Men's Christian 
Association have a library and reading-room — the latter 
free to the public. The State has a law library at the 
Supreme Court-room, and a general library of 40,000 vol- 
umes at the Capitol. 

Manchester. — Though our work is about Richmond, it 
would be incomplete without mention of Manchester, our 



60 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

sister city just across the James. It is an ancient settle- 
ment, yet in its activity and progress quite youthful. Its 
population is about 12,000, and the people are largely en- 
gaged in manufactures. The water-power is of great 
value, though but partially employed. Here are large 
hour, cotton, paper, tobacco, wooden-ware, sumac, and 
brick manufactories. The large and important railroad 
shops of the Danville and Petersburg railroad companies 
are located here. 

Petersburg. — This city (population 25,000), so often men- 
tioned in the bulletins of the late war, is only about twenty- 
two miles south of Richmond, and may be reached b} r four 
or five trains a day on the Richmond and Petersburg rail- 
road. The "Crater" battle-field and the old Blandford 
Church are only two among a great many inducements to 
visit the city. The people are noted for their hospitality 
to strangers. 

Down the River. — The .James river from Richmond to 
Newport News — its mouth — abounds in historic localities. 
Excursions from Richmond down to Dutch Gap (fifteen 
miles) are frequent, and in that little distance the follow- 
ing can be seen : Powhatan, seat of the Indian King Pow- 
hatan ; Warwick — now marked by a solitary chimney — a 
town burned by Benedict Arnold during the Revolution; 
piles where the Confederates had their pontoon bridges , 
Drewry's Bluff, or Fort Darling, where the Union fleet was 
repulsed in May, 1862, and near which a desperate battle 
was fought two 3^ears later ; Fort Harrison, carried by as- 
sault of the Union troops September, 1864, and Dutch (Jap 
Canal, begun by Gen. Benjamin F. Butler in 1864 and fin- 
ished by the United States Government and the city of 
Richmond since the war. It is five hundred feet long and 
two hundred feet wide, and shortens the distance between 
Richmond and the sea over five miles. 

On "the island" or "cut-off" is the site of Henricopolis, 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 61 

a city laid off and fortified two hundred and fifty years ago, 
but soon abandoned. 

Two miles below Dutch Gap is Varina, in the early days 
of Virginia history the residence of Pocahontas and her 
English husband Rolfe ; late the county-seat of Henrico, 
and burnt by Arnold in 1781, and in the recent war the 
neutral ground for exchange of prisoners. 

Praise of Richmond. 

"It is the merriest place and the most picturesque I have 
seen in America."— W. M. Thackeray, in a letter home, March 
3, 1853. 

"This city hath a pleasant seat. It is high ; the James 
river runs below it, and when I went out an hour ago 
nothing was heard but the roar of the falls." — Daniel Web- 
ster, in a letter to a friend, April 39, 1847. 

"I have been treated with kindness in every part of the 
United States where I have resided. But it was in Rich- 
mond, where I spent most of the winters between 1783 and 
1789, that I was received with that old proverbial Virginia 
hospitality to which 1 know no parallel anywhere within 
the circle of my travels. " — Albert Gallatin, in 1848. 

"The town (Richmond) is delightfully situated on eight 
hills, overhanging James river, a sparkling stream, studded 
here and there with bright islands, or brawling over broken 
rocks." — Charles Dickens, in American Note*. 

"I never met with such an assemblage of striking and 
interesting objects as here. The town dispersed over hills 
of various shapes; the river descending from west to east, 
arid obstructed by a multitude of small islands, clumps of 
trees, and myriads of rocks — the same river, at the lower 
end of the town, bending at right angles to the south and 
winding many miles in that direction, its polished surface 
caught here and there by the eye, but more frequently cov- 
ered from the view by trees, among which white sails ex- 
hibit a curious and interesting spectacle ; then again, on 



02 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

the opposite side, Manchester, built on a hill which, sloping 
quickly to the river, opens the whole town to view, inter- 
spersed with flourishing poplars, and surrounded to a great 
distance by green plains and stately woods — all these ob- 
jects falling at once under the eye, constitute by far the 
most finely varied and most animated landscape I have ever 
seen." — William Wirt. 



Confederate Directory. 




IjHE following, taken from an almanac of 1865, shows 

H where the chief offices of the Confederacy were : 

The Treasury Building* (formerly and now known 

as the Custom House) fronts on Main and Bank 

streets, midway between Tenth and Eleventh streets. 

The President's Office is on the third floor of this 

building, first stairs to the right of Bank street entrance. 

The office of the Secretary of the Treasury is on second 

floor, in front part — same entrance. 

The Register's Office is on same floor, right hand side of 
Bank street entrance. 

The Treasurer's Office is on first floor — entrance from 
Main street, opposite Farmers' Bank. 

The First Auditor's Office is in the Clifton House, in rear 
of the Ballard House. 

The Second Auditor's Office is in the building formerly 
occupied as Monumental Hotel, corner of Grace and Ninth 
streets (now St. Claire Hotel). 

The Third Auditor's Office is in the Post-Office Depart- 
ment, second floor (building burned and rebuilt: now Goddin 
Hall). 

The Comptroller's Office is at the corner of Main and 
Sixth streets (Arlington House). 

The City Post-Office is under Spotswood Hotel, Main 
street (where Pace Block now is). 

The Medical Purveyor's Office is on Pearl or Fourteenth 
street, between Main and Cary. 



*The building has been remodeled and enlarged since the war, yet 
these general directions hold good. 



64 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

The Department of State is on the third floor of the 
Treasury Building (Custom House) — ascend by stairs nearest 
Main street. 

The War Department Building (formerly known as Me- 
chanics' Institute) is on Ninth street, between Main and 
Franklin streets. (It was burnt at the Evacuation — was at 
the west end of Bank street.) 

The Secretary of War and Adjutant- and Inspector-Gen- 
eral are on the first floor of the building. (See the signs.) 

The Post-Office Department is in the stuccoed building 
(Goddin Hall), corner Bank and Eleventh streets. 

The Navy Department and Surgeon-General's Office are 
in War Department Building, second story, right-hand 
side 

The Ordinance Bureau and Attorney-General's Office are 
on same floor, right-hand side. 

The Commissary General's Office is on the south side 
Main street, between Ninth and Tenth. (Burnt at Evac- 
uation.) 

The Quartermaster-Generars Office is at corner of Bank 
and Tenth streets. 

The Transportation Office is at the corner of Broad and 
Ninth streets ("Valentine House "). 

The Arm}* Intelligence Office is over Bank of Virginia, 
Main street. (Steam's Block is on the site.) 

General Gardner's Office is in the frame building, at the 
corner of Capitol and Tenth streets. 

The Provost Marshal's Office and Passport Office in same 
building, corner Broad and Tenth streets. 

The Medical Director's Office is also in the same building. 

Lieutenant-General Ewell's Office (commanding " Depart- 
ment of Richmond"), on Franklin street, between Sixth 
and Seventh. 

General Kemper's Office (commanding Virginia Reserves) 
is in Female Institute building, on Tenth, north of Marshall 
street. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 65 

The War Tax Bureau is in the Richmond House (now St. 
Luke's Home — Dr. Hunter McGuire's hospital), Governor 
street. 

Persons are notified not to enter any of the offices without 
addressing' the messengers. 

Positively no persons, on or without business, received in 
the offices after 3 o'clock, P. M . 

Volunteers wished to be transported to their companies 
can do so by calling at the Quartermaster's Department in 
the Blues' Hall, on Bank street, between Ninth and Tenth 
streets (where R. and D. R. R. Offices now are). 

The Government Offices open at 9 A. M., and close at 3 
P. M. 



The Battle-Fields. 



'"HJf^OBKToWN and Norfolk having- been evacuated, the 
-_J^ : , first real contlict-at-arms before Richmond was on 

Wthe 15th of May, 1862, when the Union fleet, con- 
sisting of the Monitor, Galena, Aroostook, Nauga- 
gJLJL tuck, Port Royal, and others, attacked the Confed- 

°^° erate batteries at Drewry's Bluff (Fort Darling), 
and after a brief but spirited contest was compelled to 
retire with the loss of a considerable number of killed and 
wounded, and several crippled vessels. 

The bluff is on the south side of James river, seven and 
a half miles south of the city, and is reached by steamer, or 
by vehicles by way of the Richmond and Petersburg turn- 
pike. It was one of the strongest positions on the lines 
before Richmond, and defied to the very last all assaults by 
land and water. Many of the earthworks are still standing, 
partially veiled by trees. From this point there is an ex- 
tended view of the river, up and down, of Chaffln's Bluff, 
on the opposite side, which was also a Confederate strong- 
hold, and of a portion of the battle-ground of Ma} r , 1864, 
when General Butler tried to flank the bluff and was met 
and forced back by Beauregard. In the river near here the 
Confederate iron-clads were blown up upon the evacuation 
of Richmond. Remains of the military bridges which 
were built across the James by the Confederates are to be 
seen at low tide. From the deck of a New York or James 
river steamer excellent views may be had. 

Seven Pines, or Fair Oaks. — [Reached by the Seven Pines 
railroad ; depot at Twenty-ninth and P streets.] — On the 
31st of May, 1862, the Confederates, under Gen. Joseph E. 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 07 

Johnston, attacked the left wing of General McClellan's 
army, which had crossed the Chickahominy in its advance 
upon Richmond. A heavy rain had fallen and transformed 
this usually insignificant stream into a broad river. The 
Confederates took advantage of the division of the Union 
forces and fell upon them with violence, and on that day 
and the next the great but indecisive battle of Seven Pines, 
or Fair Oaks, was fought. On the first day Gen. Joseph E. 
Johnston was wounded, and two days later (Jen. R. E. Lee 
succeeded to the command of the army. 

The two armies in the contest lost, together, about ten 
thousand men. The battle-field extended from Fair Oaks 
Station, on the Richmond and York River railroad, to a 
locality on the Richmond and Williamsburg stage road 
which for one hundred and fifty years has been known as 
Seven Pines. 

The line of earthworks of the Federal forces is still plainly 
visible, having been but little disturbed by man or the action 
of time, and one Federal redoubt is particularly noticeable 
and interesting, the position of eaeh gun being plainly 
marked by the ruts, or wheel tracks, caused by the rebound 
from the discharge of the guns — the earth at the time being- 
soft from much rain. 

The railroad traverses a beautiful country, and passes the 
"Masonic Home" established by the generosity of the 
late Capt. A. G. Babcock, and also passes the battle-field, 
breastworks, and redoubts of the battle of Fair Oaks, which 
was fought the day after Seven Pines. 

Seven Pines is eight miles from Richmond. 

There is a National Cemetery near the battle-field, and 
another on the Williamsburg road only a mile or two from 
Richmond. There are numerous earthworks in this vicinity 
still standing. 

Richmond Just Before the Seven Days' Battles— " The 

merry month of May, 1862, in and around Richmond came 



68 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

fully up to the requirements of the poets. It was lovely, 
indeed, in city and field. The fine elms of the Capitol 
Square drooped their spring foliage over flashing fountains, 
soft sward, and walks thronged with fair women and brave 
men ! The gay bustle of military preparation brightened 
the streets. New regiments with full ranks from the South 
marched every day through a gauntlet of cheers and waving 
of white handkerchiefs in whiter hands. Outside the city 
the farms, undreaming of devastation, smiled with spring- 
ing grain and happy labor. 

" From his sweet banquet, 'mid the perfumed clover, 
The robin soared and sung." 

" The people of the beleaguered city, on the other hand, 
were making little pleasure excursions, on horseback or in 
buggies, to the picket lines to see McClellan's men. Four 
miles and a half out, on Mechanicsville turnpike, Cobb's 
Georgians supported the videttes. Standing on the brow of 
a gentle slope and looking directly down the road across 
the open valley of the Chickahominy, you saw, at point- 
blank cannon-shot, McClellan's troops. A mile to the right, 
down the stream, the Federal reconnoitering balloon hov- 
ered calmly above the woods. Few troops were visible on 
either side. Nothing suggested the presence of two hun- 
dred thousand soldiers." 

The scene soon shifted, and one of the bloodiest dramas 
in the world's history was enacted. 

Mechanicsville. — This little village is five and a half 
miles northeast of Richmond, and is reached by a very 
straight turnpike, which leaves the city at Yenable street. 
Here and at Ellerson's Mill, a short distance beyond, the 
seven days' battles were begun, June 26, 18G2. General 
Lee, by massing his troops on the right of McClellan's line, 
forced the latter out of his works, and to the protection of 
his gunboats on James river, after fighting the battles of 
Mechanicsville, Gaines' Mill, Cold Harbor, Savage's Sta- 



GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 69 

tion, Frazier's Farm, and Malvern Hill. At the last-named 
place the Confederates met with a bloody check, and 
McClellan was thereby enabled to retire to Harrison's 
Landing, farther down James river, and a campaign in 
which between 30,000 and 40,000 men were killed or 
wounded was closed. 

The drive to Mechanics ville is pleasant and the road 
good. 

The Chickahominy is crossed five miles from the city, and 
at several points traces of Confederate breastworks may be 
seen. Where the land is valuable to the farmers the}' have 
generally been levelled, but where it is of little use they, 
have been allowed to stand, particularly in woods and 
swampy lands. 

Cold Harbor. — It is, of course, not the design of this 
work to include every field of combat in the neighborhood 
of Richmond, for they are numbered by dozens, if not by 
scores. Only the chief ones can be referred to. Cold Har- 
bor is entitled to particular distinction. It is about six 
miles below Mechanics ville, and between nine and ten from 
Richmond by the most direct road. On this field two greal 
battles were fought. The first. June 27, 1862, when 11k 1 
Confederates, under the two Hills and Longstreet, attacked 
Porter and Slocum, and when Stonewall Jackson, in his 
celebrated Hank movement from the Valley, turned the 
scale of victory against the Union army ; the second, on 
June 3, 1864, when Grant, in his movement down from 
Spotsylvania Courthouse and the Wilderness, was eon- 
fronted by Lee, and attacking the latter in his entrench- 
ments, according to Swinton, " lost 13,000 men " in about 
half an hour without making a serious impression on the 
Confederates. In the first battle the heaviest fighting was 
about Mr. George Watt's house, at "Springfield"; in the 
second, in the vicinity of Beulah church and Cold Harbor 
("Cool Arbor"). After this Grant moved on down to 
James river, and crossed over in front of Petersburg. 



70 GUIDE TO RICHMOND, &c. 

To see this battle-field as it deserves, visitors should first 
provide themselves with competent guides, who may be 
procured by inquiry at the Richmond hotels. 

Fort Harrison, Malvern Hill, Savage's Station, &,c— Sep- 
tember 21), 1804, two divisions of Butler's corps surprised 
and captured Fort Harrison and attempted to carry Fort 
Gilmer, adjacent, but were unsuccessful. On the 30th two 
Confederate divisions endeavored to recover Fort Harrison, 
but were repulsed with heavy loss. This battle-ground may 
be easily seen from the deck of a steamer going up or down 
the river. So, too, the Malvern Hill battle-ground, which 
is some fourteen or fifteen miles from Richmond by county 
roads. 

Savage's Station is on the Richmond and York River rail- 
road, and is therefore easily reached. Here, on June 29, 
1862, the Confederates, under Magruder, attacked the 
Union troops, then retreating from Cold Harbor to James 
river, and inflicted upon them a heavy loss. 

The battle-field of the Yellow Tavern, where General J. E. 
B. Stuart was mortally wounded, is on the Brook turnpike 
but a few miles west of our corporate limits, and is. reached 
by a beautiful road (Brook turnpike) which passes many 
elegant country residences. 

The nearest approach of the Union forces to Richmond 
before they entered it was in March, 1864, when Kilpatrick, 
commanding a raiding party, got near the toll-gate on the 
Brook turnpike — a point only about one mile north of the 
city limits. Meeting with some resistance here, and learn- 
ing that he would have a heavy battery to pass before he 
got into the city, he retired. 

The negro carriage drivers are tolerably well posted in 
regard to Confederate localities. « 




MAP OF THE BATTLE-FIELDS AROUND RICHMOND. 



INDEX. 



A Brief Introduction 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 

Allan House 44 

Allen & Ginter's Factory ... 43 

Battle-fields around Richmond 66, 67, 68, 69, 70 

Belle Isle 45, 46 

Capitol and Capitol Square 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30 

City Hall , 32 

Clay— Statue of 30, 32 

Clubs— Social 18 

Confederate Directory . 63 

Confederate Landmarks identified . . 32, 33 

. Davis Museum and Library . . . , 35 

Davis (Jefferson) House 35 

Executive Mansion .......... ... 23 

Exposition Grounds , . . . 50 

First African Church 36 

Gallery in Rotunda 28 

Gamble's Hill Park 45 

Governor's Mansion 23 

Hollywood Cemetery . 46, 47, 48 

Hotels— List of principal ones 18. 19 

Houdon's Statue of Washington 26, 27 

James River— Historic Points on 60 

Jewish Cemetery 57 

Jefferson Davis Mansion 35 

Lee Monument 52 

Libby Hill Monument 36 

Libby Prison Site 38, 39 

Manchester , . 58, 59 

Marshall Paik 36 

Masons' Hall and Temple 58 

Mayo & Bro.'s Factory 43 

Medical College of Virginia 36 

Monument— Soldiers' and Sailors' 36, 37 

Monumental Church 35, 36 

Monroe Park 52, 53 

National Cemetery 57 

Oakwood Cemetery 38 

Old Stone House 40 



[NDEX. 1 6 

/ Old Stove in Capitol 28 

Pace Block 43 

f Penitentiary (State's prison) 46 

Petersburg t . . .*> 60 

Population— Richmond and Manchester 8 

Post-Office 40, 41 

Private Residences -fine 53, 54 

Railroads entering city 8, 10, 12, 13, 14 

Reservoirs of City Water 48, 49 

Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac R. R.— Attractions of . . 8, 10 

Richmond— Praise of 61, 62 

Shockoe Cemetery . 57 

Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument 36 

Soldiers' Home— Confederate 50 

State Library 30 

St. Luke's Home 58 

Steamer Lines - 13 

St. John's Church 36 

s Stonewall Jackson Statue 25 

Street Railways— Places of interest reached by 14. 15, 16, 17 

Trade and Trade Organizations 17, 18 

Tredegar Works 45 

University College of Medicine 35 

Y. M. C. A 44 

Valentine's Meat-Juice Works . 44 

Valentine -Studios of this sculptor 33 

Virginia Historical Society . . 58 

Washington Monument in the Capitol Square 23, 24 



1833. •'• •'• •'• 1894 

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" The most elaborate and handsomest and most useful work treating 
upon Southern properties which ever came to notice "—Boston Herald. 

" It has no equal in this country."— Richmond Dispatch. 



R. B. CHAFFIN. J. B. HARVIE. R. II. GILLIAM. 



R. B. CHAFFIN & CO., 



Real Estate Agents 

and Auctioneers. 



Iiat*ge Quantity of City Property and Six 

Hundred Farms and mills potf 

Sale and Exchange. 



Land Shown to Buyers Free. 

Purchasers Introduced to Owners. 

ISTo- 1 3ST. Teisith Street, 
RICHMOND, VA. 



Reference, by permission. First National Bank. 



Hot Springs of Virginia. 



MATUIE'S SANITARIUM. 



Well-known Virginia Health Resort. Recently Improved 
at a Cost of several Hundred Thousand Dollars. 



[Extract of letter from General Robert E. Lee, written two months before 
his death. Published by permission of General Fitzhugh Lee.] 

Hot Springs, Bath Co., 

Mrs. 20 Aug., 18.9. 

My Dear Cousin 

Your letter of the 6th has followed me to this 
place. * * * * I shall have been here a fortnight next Wednesday, 
24th, and though I feel no decided improvement in myself I cannot 

prevent regretting, dear Cousin , that you are not with me, for I see 

such benefit derived by others in taking these baths I am not going to 
enumerate the cases, for you probably have heard of many similar, but 
will content myself with saying that they are wonderful and ought to en- 
courage all to hope for relief. Dr. Cabell of the Va University tells me, 
he is the resident phys cian here, that 95 out of 100 that have come under 
his cognizance, who have faithfully taken the waters, have been relieved, 

some entirely and others partially. Mine like case may be beyond 

their reach but may have come within their healing powers And 

what a comfort it would have been to us all. There was an old gentle- 
man here several years my senior who had not walked for years and 
could not even turn himself in bed, after a month's trial of the waters, 
went home yesterday being able to walk with a cane. Dr. ('abell said 
he ought to have remained until October. He may have been a case of 
special blessings, seeing he had survived four wives and is now happv 
with the fifth. 

I shall leave on the 29th. * * * * 

Good-bye my dear Cousin . May God preserve you. 

Most truly yours, aff'e & faithfullv, 

(Signed) R E. LEE. 



Glasgow, Va , May 11th, 1894. 
My dear Mr. Ingalls: 

I send you an extract from a letter from General R. E. Lee, referring 
to the beneficial qualities of the Hot Springs. If the extract will be of 
service to the Hot Springs Company, in bringing persons there and re- 
lieving their sufferings, you have my permission to use it in such way as 
may best promote the object in view. 

Very truly vours, 
To Mr. M. E. Ingalls, " (Signed) FITZ LEE. 

Pres. C. & O. R. R., Cincinnati, O. 

For further information applv to 

F. S. STERRY, Manager of Hotels, or 
Dr. F. W. CHA.PIN, Medical Director, 

Hot Springs, Bath County, Va. 



s 



JL.-C 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



014 444 374 3& 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 444 374 3 ♦ 



